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Review

Ustun Lahmacun

££££
Written by

Down the Newington Green end of Green Lanes, where Mary Wollstonecraft twinkles around the corner, there’s a handful of Turkish restaurants, patisseries, and also Ustun Lahmacun. This tiny dedicated lahmacun and pide shop has Don Corleone on their walls and lahmacuns you can’t refuse. Everything is made-to-order. The dough is kneeded fresh to a Rizla-like transparency, the mince mixture spread before being cooked in their wood burning oven. The result is excellent: heavy on onion and isot pepper, this is a lahmacun worth seeking out. Bear in mind, it’s cash-only.

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