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Review

Ugly Dumpling

££££
 in  Soho

At first, Ugly Dumpling might not sound like your thing. A cheeseburger dumpling, who are you? What are you trying to do to the purity of dim sum? But then you try them and find it’s quite hard to hate the place. Their dumpling remixes - from salmon and summer salsa, to mushroom and truffle - are great for when the sight of another Caesar salad might just send you over the edge. There’s the choice of a vegetarian, seafood, or meat platter for £11 and under. We might think it was all a little gimmicky if it wasn’t all so good-natured and fun. This is a great spot for a takeaway, or a Friday lunch that ends in marshmallow and Nutella dumplings, with those colleagues you actually want to share a bottle of weekend gateway prosecco with.

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