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Review

Toklas

££££
Written by

Anywhere within spitting distance of 180 The Strand feels like it’s on the very forefront of hotness. Protractor-worthy cheekbones are ten-a-penny around here and only the most worthy of fits will get the full up and down look treatment. That said, despite being attached to the brutalist (and brutally trendy) building, Toklas is the kind of hot restaurant that knows it’s much cooler to be a little reserved. You’ve got the founders of Frieze to thank for this tasteful and consistently tasty Mediterranean restaurant. While you might expect something that smirks towards pretension given its location and founders, Toklas is anything but. The menu is seductive in its simplicity, with a radicchio and hazelnut salad and crab with leeks standing out, though mains can leave something to be desired: a cuttlefish and mussel stew is a little too minimalist in flavour. Nevertheless the combination of a worldie chocolate tart, a bar and dining room that’s full of understated Vinterior-ish pieces (that us normies would likely overpay for), and a pleasantly buzzing atmosphere that’s defined by thick-rimmed glasses will leave you feeling indulged and in the know.

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