Bad Manners

It might be the proximity to gravestones but Bad Manners—a Mexican kiosk in Hackney—is one of the most peaceful places to eat excellent tacos in the city. All of the basic seating is outside, which means fresh air and the unpredictable British weather are non-negotiable. But that’s OK. Because you’re in a churchyard oasis, with big shady trees blocking out Mare Street and a strip of crispy, moreish candied bacon in your hand. That’s got to be good for your soul, if not your cholesterol.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

On sleepy weekday mornings, you can stop by on your way to work, picking up coffees and pastries before hurrying off to the station. But linger and you’ll be rewarded with hefty breakfast burritos—the same size as the arm of the toddler sitting in the pram opposite. They come stuffed with fluffy, folded eggs and generous amounts of sausage. Sensible people eat half. Hungry people eat it in one sitting. At dinnertime, larger benches are added to the grassy verge and groups of friends trickle in, building DIY tacos of barbecued meats and staying for “just one more” glass of wine before catching trains home or rolling out into Hackney pubs. 

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

The food is deceptively simple, but everything is done to the highest standard. Take the baja taco that comes with thick fingers of fresh, flaky fish in a crispy coating and refreshing crunchy cabbage, wrapped up in house-made tortillas. They deserve to be eaten in reverential silence. Even with the soundtrack of sizzling eggs, laughter carrying in the wind as glasses clink, and orders racking up, this spot never loses its cool.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Bacon And Egg Taco

The best bits of breakfast, in a taco. There are salty, crispy hash browns, candied, crispy bacon that’s not overly sweet, and a perfectly cooked fried egg draped on top, ready for its big runny yolk moment. You will need to eat it with a knife and fork before you even think about eating this taco like a taco.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Birria Taco

This birria taco speaks to days when you want to bathe in a rich, meaty stew and be wrapped up in a soft taco while someone whispers “it’ll all be OK” in your ear. Comforting and rich, it’s flecked with coriander and stuffed with tender ribbons of beef.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Baja Fish Taco

One of our favourite things to order and just like everything else on the menu, it’s simple but done very well. Refreshing shredded cabbage, generous hunks of fish in a crispy, light batter, and a corn tortilla that’s up to the task of holding it all in, without feeling too thick or heavy.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Sausage Burrito

Hangovers, birthdays, break-ups—this is a superior breakfast, whatever the occasion. It’s big enough to share but you won’t want to. A chewy, flour tortilla holds a generous helping of sausage, melted cheese, well-seasoned eggs, and salsa that leans sweet rather than spicy. This well-wrapped, sturdy burrito is one of the few things on the menu that truly works as a takeaway option if you want to eat it later.