LDNReview

Does gout have a vibe? It’s hard to say, but The George certainly does its best to create a gout-ish feeling. This is a delicious and decadent take on a pub. The downstairs bar is Fitzrovia’s usual mix of slurring suits and those trying to ignore the slurring suits, while the upstairs dining room is a hideout for anyone looking to part ways with a stupendous amount of cash for scampi, steak, sausages and mash, and the like. All of it is perfectly debaucherous. The room gives off an energy that mixes The Tudors and the posh bit of the Titanic while the staff, who are friendly rather fawning, will very much encourage you to eat foie gras. Indulgent? Yes. Silly? Certainly. The knickerbocker glory for dessert? Without doubt. Of course, it’s inaccessible in more ways than one. The stairs, the prices, the feeling that perhaps fox hunting isn’t so bad. But if a certain kind of British excess—complete with chardonnays from Kent and punchy devilled eggs—gets you going, then The George isn’t just extravagant. It’s extremely enjoyable.

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