Arguably London’s most revered restaurant name, St. John’s Marylebone restaurant appears in the form of dinky, delicious small plates that are best enjoyed with a glass that’s never left dry. Like all St. John spaces, it’s white and bright, with their innately composed staff gliding around the upstairs bar area and the downstairs dining room, always with a deep-fried rarebit in hand. But it is much smaller and transient-feeling than Smithfield or Bread and Wine. This is kind of the point. Wonderfully balanced anchovy and crostini is made to be picked at, as is a dish of sprats and aioli, and these bits and bobs are best enjoyed at the bar, with the bustle of Marylebone Lane outside. There are equally good and bigger plates too, as well as a boxy downstairs for big groups, but something about this version of St. John, smack bang in central London, screams daytime grazing and gulping.

photo credit: Sam Harris