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Review

Sargasso

££££
Seafood  in  Margate
Written by

As much as you love London, and love getting away from London, you can’t help manifesting a bit of London where you are. Because, ultimately, we are self-obsessed urbanites who look at a small seaside town and say things like “isn’t this lovely” before declaring the need for a local Pret and somewhere with a £50 bottle of orange wine that tastes like Copella mixed with petrol. This is not to say you shouldn’t be going to Sargasso, the seaside sibling to Brawn in Hackney, because you absolutely should. Margate’s newest hotspot is the place to be and certainly a place you want to keep eating and drinking in. The menu is basically simple, seductive seafood. An oyster with ’nduja. Smoked eel with bacon and watercress. An enormous, beautifully cooked hunk of brill alongside seasonal favourite monk’s beard and sweet datterini tomatoes. Combined with the dulcet tones of Gil Scott-Heron, a serious wine list and a seat at the bar, it’s clear to see why it’s already a locals and not-so-local favourite.

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