Have you ever walked past a restaurant and thought: ‘No way am I eating in there’? Saporitalia might be one of those places. It’s not that it looks horrible, it just looks nothing. The only feature of note is the wood-fired pizza oven – and that’s a feature you’re going to be really pleased about if you overcome first impressions and come in for a meal.

Saporitalia is family-run, and it feels like family-run places you’d find in the unglamorous districts of any Italian city. It’s completely unpretentious, and that’s what we love most about it. The low-key attitude here means you may find yourself waiting for your order until just a few minutes before the ‘have they forgotten I’m here?’ worries start to pop into your head, but if you’re prepared to accept that, you’re in for a great time. The staff is friendly, and the food is great. Not earth-shattering necessarily, but all good and all at prices that are in keeping with Saporitalia’s local status.

Get the mixed antipasto or soup to start, and then pasta or a grilled veal chop to follow. Or, best of all, one of the pizzas. The crusts are thin, light, and easy on the jawbone. Toppings are mostly simple, and anything with tomato sauce is going to make you leave happy. At lunch, there’s a really cheap set menu, and in the evenings you should take advantage of the short, well-priced wine list. Walk-ins are a breeze during the week. At weekend evenings, you’d be crazy not to book. And when you get there, remember: looks aren’t everything.