Though Rita’s has been knocking about London for going on a decade now, there’s still something decidedly youthful feeling about it. That said, Missy Flynn and Gabe Pryce’s take on American-influenced cuisine has grown up. The days of napkin-essential fried chicken and tequila-heavy frozen Ritas in Hackney may be gone, but they’ve created something different and better on Lexington Street, in the heart of Soho. That, or we’re all just getting old. Here it’s candlelight and Roy Davis Jr playing in the background, trademark punchy cocktails alongside cream cheese and chilli water-laden gildas. The room isn’t exactly big, nor is it particularly elaborate, but what it is is comfortable. Bowls of homely clams with sugared Idaho scones and a plate of still mooing bavette with creamed greens and crispy potatoes, all to the sound of James Murphy alongside a glass of Donati Lambrusco. It’s a dash of Americana that feels completely at home in London.
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