The first lockdown was grim for lots of reasons. Not least the amount of times we stood alone in Crocs and pyjamas outside the Old Town Hall on Mare Street, attempting to manifest Rainbow Cookout into existence, before dejectedly moping up to Percy Ingle for a consolatory cream finger. Anyway, finally, finally, Rainbow Cookout appeared. Their jerk chicken sandwich is packed with meat from a freshly grilled leg methodically pulled off by Otis - the world’s most laconic and considered grill master - and it’s crisp blackened skin carefully removed with Peking duck-like precision. All of this is put between two thick wholemeal slices and topped with careful ladles of fragrant and spiced gravy with carrots, onions, and cabbage knocking about in there as well. It’s there Wednesday to Saturday, or, as Otis told us, “whenever I feel like getting out of bed”.