Understanding that you can’t order everything from Orient’s 70-something item strong dim sum menu can be hard to come to terms with. Not just because of greed and want but because any menu operating on a pen and paper system is frankly never-not-dangerous. But regardless of whether you order one dish here (the XO fried turnip cake, FYI) or several (the Orient mixed cheung fun and roast pork puffs are particularly excellent) you’re going to be satisfied. Aesthetically, the Chinatown restaurant feels slicker and shinier than some of its old school, canteen-like counterparts. Not that that’s reflected in the prices. £10 on two dishes goes a long way here.