Being past your prime gets a bad rap. Ask anyone who’s seen The Rolling Stones live recently. They'll tell you that there’s something quite endearing about what might at first glance resemble four dehydrated Top Gear audience members doing karaoke. Odette’s in Primrose Hill has got a touch of this about it. It’s a Bill Nighy character in restaurant form, serving up flair-ish dishes that have a touch of the razzle-dazzle about them, like a generously horseradish-topped salmon tartare, but that, ultimately, flatter to deceive. Nothing here is even close to bad, just things like a dry confit chicken leg with wild garlic sauce feel and taste par for the course. Nevertheless, Odette’s is perfectly pleasant for a reasonable set lunch under twenty quid. Sit inside if you want to feel like you’re eating with your parents, or out front if you want a twenty-year-old-Café-Rouge-terrace-begging-for-some-TLC vibe. Either way, it’s nice, but was probably nicer back in the day.
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Greenberry Café is a casual all-day spot in Primrose Hill, serving nice brunch dishes, and larger and meatier things for lunch and dinner.
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Lyle’s is a grown-up but not stuffy British restaurant in Shoreditch. Come for lunch when you can order a la carte.
St Leonards is a spot in Shoreditch, with an ice bar and a wood-burning hearth, but despite the odd standout vegetable dish, it’s not worth going to.
Oslo Court is a restaurant in a block of flats in St John’s Wood, serving British classics in a room that doesn’t seem to have changed since the 80s.
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