Namak Mandi

There’s little room for dithering at a restaurant like Namak Mandi. The cash-only Pashtun restaurant in Tooting is a constantly fizzing, bubbling, flaming, moving, and smoking box. Families and friends bag one of their tables early, while the hyper-organised head up to their private dining room to attack a pre-ordered whole lamb while sitting cross-legged on cushions. For the chaotic there’s a row of chairs to patiently wait for your takeaway—and it’s a stomach-rumbling wait. Discus-shaped crispy chapli kebabs being cooked in crackling fat soundtrack the room, enormous hanging Afghan naans float past like edible comfort blankets, and flame-torched woks full of fresh karahi are constantly stirred and swapped. All are essential orders, along with a portion of kabli pulao—an irresistible savoury rice mixed with sweet raisins and currants, piled on top of a lamb shank, that you can't help but shovel into your mouth.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch