LDNReview

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image
8.0

Lina Stores King's Cross

££££02081034787

We’re pretty dangerous people. You can probably tell. After all, we own two types of hot sauce, once attempted to cut a friend’s fringe in a moving vehicle, and sometimes we wait eight months between trips to the dentist. Don’t be intimidated, the Tabasco life chose us. But realistically, when it comes to eating out, danger is the last thing you want. Otherwise more people would bring snacks on rollercoasters. And less people would be eating at Lina Stores.

This retro pasta spot and Italian takeout deli is the restaurant equivalent of a safety belt. Ten minutes from King’s Cross station, this place is equal parts inoffensive, cute, and useful–especially if you happen to work nearby. In a room that looks like the innards of Wes Anderson’s skull, they’re serving the kind of Certified Nice Pasta™ that you’ll find at many of London’s other pasta specialist spots. A rondini seafood number. An old school pappardelle with a rich ragu. A simple butter and egg yolk tagliolini that you order to prove to your date that you really are a sapiosexual. They range from £7 to £13 per plate and for the most part, the portion sizes are that which you’d offer an eight-year-old, or yourself after living it large with the office biscuit jar at lunch. But order a couple and you won’t leave hungry.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

The Lina Stores look is pastel, candy striper’s dream meets La Dolce Vita theme park, with their handy take-out deli even decked out with hanging salumi, counters full of cheese, and glass jars packed to the rim with Italian sweets in shiny wrappers. Basically, it’s a charming, uniform mint green space where primary colours go to die and feels like the set of a rom-com with a tagline like they came for the linguine, but they stayed for love. Thanks to all the cheerful faux-retro touches, your catch up will feel far more Pinterest dreamboard than mutual Victoria line meet-up, and that meal with your parents will leave them debating a trip to Florence, or, at the very least, re-doing the kitchen. The only downside is that all that inoffensive charm makes Lina Stores popular, so book ahead. Just to be safe.

Food Rundown

Prosciutto Di Parma Panini

If you live or work near King’s Cross, this is for you. If you don’t, well, let that envy sink in or start pressuring your boss to move WeWorks, because this £7, proper doorstop of a sandwich from their takeout deli makes for a great lunch. 9/10 focaccia.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

Orecchiette Con Salsiccia D’Agnello

Our favourite pasta here. Hello chilli, hello lamb sausage, hello rubbing our bellies in a very self-satisfied manner.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

Ravioli Di Zucca

Pumpkin party sounds like a truly terrible organic retreat that’s sponsored by Starbucks and the gods of autumn, but it’s actually how we’d describe this ravioli. It’s light enough, and with just the right amount of sweetness.

Ravioli Doppi Di Parmigiano E Topinambur

A double ravioli stuffed with salted ricotta, artichoke, and parmesan. Arguably not as enjoyable as witnessing your favourite 90s celebrities in matching denim numbers, but still, a decent double-the-trouble number.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

Tagliolini Ai 30 Tuorli

When you hear ‘30 egg yolks’ you might instantly think of either your fertility or that time the older kids in your neighbourhood egged your family’s Citroen Saxo. Bleak. Instead, think of this excellent tagliolini. It’s got all the classic swag of a cacio e pepe, with plenty of added egg. Just be sure to eat it fast or it’ll turn distinctly omelette.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

Rondini Con Granchio E Capesante

This crab and scallop packed rondini is a great seafood situation. Just be aware that even if you’re really down with the concept of small plates, you’ll find yourself staging a classic piece of performance art we like to call Where’s The Rest Of It? A minimal portion for £12.

Pappardelle Con Ragu Do Coda Bi Bue

We like to think of a good meaty pappardelle as the ‘girl next door’ of the carbohydrate world. There will always be one close by. You’ll inevitably fancy them. And if they’re particularly special, you very well might find a bunch of excuses to see them again. This ox tail ragu take isn’t the best we’ve tried, but it’s definitely worth an order.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

Gamberoni Alla Griglia

The kind of sad, unseasoned prawns that would probably make Bubba from Forrest Gump throw a hissy fit. Pass.

Torta Di Gelato Al Tiramisu

Your order here: pasta, pasta, pasta, pasta, this tiramisu. Is this one of the best haikus ever written? Maybe. Definitely. Yes.

Giulia Verdinelli

Lina Stores King’s Cross review image

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