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Review

Humble Chicken

££££
Japanese  in  Soho
Written by

Going to restaurants will never not be exciting. But since the pandemic, it’s fermented to a different level. Especially when it’s somewhere that feels a bit different for London. Somewhere like Humble Chicken in Soho. A yakitori counter, with its open flames, twirling skewers, and unceasing provision of food on stick - is a completely thrilling place to be. And this one is a very good one. Of the many skewers, it’s the injury-prone and the pornographic that are essential, like soft knee and cartilage, or inner thigh. Unlike an Arsenal midfielder, there’s nothing dodgy about the achilles here, nor the offal - every part of the bird is cooked to juicy and slightly-charred perfection - and each yakitori is topped with something different: lemon ponzu, spicy miso, and more. There are a few bigger plates too, as well as a small section of stuff from the sea, plus ice cold Asahi on tap. All of which add up to a very exciting bar to prop up at.

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