LDNReview
Gouqi
Gouqi—a high-end Chinese restaurant in St James’s—isn’t a fun place with offensive food, nor is it a boring place with excellent food. Instead it falls in the not-so-sweet spot of being a kind-of serious-feeling place, with an energy that’s more business than pleasure, and painfully expensive food that’s mediocre at best. We wouldn’t willingly go out of our way for another meal here but if we had to come, we’d make sure it was for dinner—and when someone else was paying.
In the evening, the dark dining room has that whole use-your-phone-flashlight-to-read-the-menu thing going on. The emerald green sofas ooze business meal energy but despite the fine-dining feeling, you could get away with wearing your New Balances and laughing a little too loud. Whether you order a half duck or some pretty straightforward kung pao prawns, the service is slow. So make sure you’re with someone who you’re happy to spend a couple of hours with—and who’s down for a McDonald’s drive-thru on the way home.
The menu has a couple of big hitters and a lot of misses. The lobster noodles are an absolute showstopper of a dish, with a drinkable ginger and spring onion sauce and a portion size enough to feed a small group. Which still isn’t much consolation when you’re paying £150-plus for it. You can skip the dim sum, as it isn’t even close to the best we’ve eaten in London. Unfortunately the majority of the menu is like that: disappointing and overpriced.
Food Rundown
Supreme Royal Dim Sum Platter
We’ve had better dim sum in most other restaurants we’ve been to. From the prawn and chive dumplings, to the scallop-filled ones, they desperately need the salty dipping sauce that comes on the side. Plus they’re also quite overpriced.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Lobster Noodles
The saving grace is this silky noodle dish that’s 75% butter and gloriously OTT. A whole lobster—partially deshelled, separated, and placed on top of the noodles—arrives in a subtle ginger and spring onion sauce. There’s enough to feed three, but the buttery noodles will encourage you to refill your little bowl, one, two, three times.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Gouqi’s Signature Roast Duck
If you’re in the mood for duck and don’t want to commit to three courses, this half roast duck is a great option. The skin is crispy, the meat is juicy, and the portion is enough to share between two.