Evernight is a futuristic restaurant that exists in the here and now. On paper it’s an izakaya-inspired restaurant in Nine Elms serving skewers and funky wines. But in reality it’s something far more Blade Runner-ish and slick. The minimalist space, all black blocks and clean wooden lines, feels like an immersive light box and the bar is its glowing bulb. This is where you want to get a seat, to watch the chefs at work and to go through the menu bite after bite—from an astounding sweetbread curry katsu bun to a tender skewer of beef tongue with black garlic and burnt apple—alongside glugs of riesling. Given the vaguely dystopian and thoroughly glassy chill of the surrounding Nine Elms development, there’s no surprise that Evernight is more cool than it is cuddly.  But this type of restaurant, that’s so sure of its vision and so full of people looking to be thrilled, is all about feeling somewhere other than at home.

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