Dorian is a neighbourhood restaurant with emerald banquette seating, a marble bar, gold lamps, and dressed-up diners. It’s also a total scene. The L-shaped space is utterly cramped, with stools at the bar and tables crammed in to accommodate everyone who’s been desperately refreshing the reservation page for the last month. The place fizzes with the clamour of conversation, corks popping, and sizzling of pork chops from the busy open kitchen. The bistro dishes are nice enough—stick to small plates like crab-topped rösti, tender pigeon with meaty morels, and carrots with tangy whipped curd. But you’re really here to see and be seen in your great outfit, and boast about how far in advance you had to book.

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