Brat @ Climpson’s Arch

After a hugely successful lockdown residency, it was music to everyone’s ears (not least this writer who lives minutes away) that Brat had made its London Fields residency permanent for 2021. The east London location is different from the original, as is the cool and even more casual atmosphere of this greenhouse on heat. That said, flame-grilled goods remain as delicious as ever: from that anchovy bread, to the turbot or John Dory, to a new luscious roast chicken rice. The covered arch has a nice indoor/outdoor thing going on, and it’s open for dinner every day of the week.