If you’re one of those Londoners who likes to slap labels on things and needs to know whether a place is a pub, a bar or a proper restaurant, Bergen House is going to be confusing. It’s a Newington Green local, but it’s not a pub. It has a fully stocked bar, but it doesn’t do cocktails. It serves one of the best steaks we’ve had in a while, but it’s not open for weekday lunch. Before you scream “Bergen House, what are you?” at nobody in particular and run to your nearest gastropub, go and check it out. Take a seat at the bar, order a beer and get talking to your neighbour. Before you know it you’ll be sharing food like you’re old friends. It’s just that kind of a place, and we’re jealous of anyone who lives within staggering distance of it.