Bellanger is the Islington outpost of the Corbin and King empire, owners of the Wolseley, Brasserie Zédel, and others. It looks beautiful, the service is polished, and you can order anything from a light snack to a very filling three-course meal. There’s no time of day when you shouldn’t come here, but late afternoons are perfect for tea or an early drink. At dinner, order veal schnitzel, sausages, and a tart or cake. Bellanger looks and feels very grown-up, but it’s not stuffy: you can be a jackass here, as long as you’re a well-behaved jackass.