HOUReview

photo credit: Raphael Brion

Squable review image
9.0

Squable

$$$$

632 W 19th St, Houston
View WebsiteEarn 3X Points

Squable is yet another link in the constellation of bars and restaurants from the people behind Better Luck Tomorrow, Anvil, Theodore Rex, and Refuge. The casual neighborhood restaurant combines a multitude of references with American food for dinner and brunch—neither of which we can get enough of. Every dish here is nostalgic, comforting, and somehow novel at the same time, from the fresh sourdough loaf seeded like an everything bagel to the stewed gigante beans with kimchi or the excessive brunch tower of hash browns drenched in hollandaise and trout roe. Plate after plate offers unexpected textures (like fried feta cheese) and flavors (like fresh oysters with pickle juice). But it all works, without feeling pretentious, and with so much flavor and nuance you want to eat even more no matter how full you may get. Service is relaxed and friendly, as though you’re already a regular. Make a reservation to snag a window-lit booth during golden hour, sidle up to the bar for brunch, or just hang out on the covered patio.

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