HOUReview

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8.9

Squable

American

The Heights

$$$$Perfect For:Impressing Out of TownersEating At The BarBrunch
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Yeah, Houston might have the country’s largest rodeo, but also we send people to space. We have brains, broncos, and bánh mì. And no restaurant underscores Houston’s underdog cosmopolitan status better than Squable in The Heights—a spot from the folks behind Anvil, Refuge, Better Luck Tomorrow, and Theodore Rex. A meal at Squable will convince you Houston is not only sophisticated (because it is) but also chill (again, accurate). It’s classy, it’s fancy, it’s innovative, but it’s also super casual, with an almost diner-y vibe. The menu—full of unexpected multicultural flavor mashups that somehow totally work—offers a surprising sense of joy that keeps us returning again and again. 

Through some kind of culinary alchemy, the food here atomizes warm feelings into dishes like a killer lasagna, crispy-fried mushrooms, a cheeseburger dripping in raclette, and perfect agnolotti pillows floating in savory broth. Squable’s menu, despite being equally hip, reads like a very intentional game of Mad Libs, combining a mind-boggling amount of influences, like French, Italian, Southern, Mediterranean, and Eastern European. Some dishes might appear to be all over the place, but those are always the ones you should order. You have to trust this place, because most of the time, each plate of food, no matter how initially inconceivable, will delight you. 

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photo credit: Richard Casteel

The dining room resembles a very bougie rehabbed mid-century diner with cinematic lighting, including a gleaming bronze bar. Everything is earthy, dim,low-slung, and intimate—like the dreamy, deep-set booths set against a wall of windows. People both working and eating here seem to know and revel in the fact the restaurant has a glamorous, ultra-hip vibe. They look the part, too, and you get the feeling wearing anything other than your best yet most casual clothing to dinner here might cause offense.

So throw on the fit you’ve been saving “just because” and make a reservation at Squable. This modern European and American restaurant is perfect for a fancy little night out and will impress damn near anyone. Whether you go to Squable for a romantic dinner, a tomatillo bloody mary-fueled brunch, or just a casual patio dinner with friends, and get to know a different side of H-Town. 

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photo credit: Richard Casteel

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photo credit: Richard Casteel

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photo credit: Liz Silva

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photo credit: Liz Silva

Squable image

photo credit: Liz Silva

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Food Rundown

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photo credit: Richard Casteel

Lasagna

At some point the server announced how many layers were in this lasagna, but when the crispy-corner slice arrives, you might need to reconfirm. Layers of pasta are stacked so neatly above thin bits of cheese and sauce, and the texture of every layer together tastes better than imaginable.

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photo credit: Richard Casteel

French Cheeseburger

This burger may be tiny, but that’s probably because adding any more melted raclette would likely be some kind of FDA violation. Use the extra bun to sop up more sauce post-patty consumption.

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photo credit: Liz Silva

Focaccia

This dish sort of feels like the kitchen ran out of supplies and threw together whatever was on hand—or someone was hungover—which is sometimes how the best dishes turn out. The focaccia is just spongy, yet firm enough to hold up to the spicy ragu, and the extra chili oil over top pulls it altogether. You will get messy, and you will enjoy it.

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photo credit: Liz Silva

Hash Browns

What’s incredible about this ferociously indulgent plate of golden hash browns smothered in hollandaise and smoked trout roe is how fast you’ll likely finish it.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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