Neo HTX

Neo HTX can be hard to find. The restaurant—one of Houston’s most intimate sushi omakase counters—is located, for some reason, inside of a Montrose townhouse that also just so happens to be a couture clothing store. And while there are no signs for Neo at 1711 Indiana Street, there is a server waiting to welcome you in (given you have a reservation) with a glass of bubbles. 

It feels a little weird. You might wonder what the hell you’re doing in a store full of couture clothing that’s somehow more expensive than the meal you are about to eat. But once you’re whisked behind a closed door to Neo’s 13-seat counter and handed that first piece of nigiri, any bit of awkwardness disappears, and you’re in for one of the best sushi omakase experiences to be had in Houston.

photo credit: Liz Silva

Unlike many other omakases in Houston, nearly every one of the 16-plus courses at Neo, apart from an opening crudo and dessert, is a piece of nigiri. Both the fish and rice are served at the perfect temperature, so each piece melts into your tastebuds. Any flavor or special yakumi that tops the nigiri complements rather than obscures the fish—something other sushi spots around town haven’t quite nailed down. As the head chef chats quietly with guests, he intentionally and methodically slices fish throughout the evening. There’s no magic act here. No smoke-and-mirrors entertainment. Just a solid, thoughtful, traditional omakase. Flavors progress slowly from light fish, like golden eye snapper, to more substantial pieces like luscious akami tuna topped with dehydrated strawberry. Each piece somehow wonderfully builds on the last, with the menu ending with scoops of Underground Creamery ice cream, which, yes, you absolutely can top with caviar (for an extra fee). 

Going to Neo is not a last-minute decision. Reservations must be made in advance—you can’t just walk in. Also, a seat costs somewhere between $175 to $220 per person depending on the night. The cost, atmosphere, and decadent experience are best left for special occasions—unless you’re someone who has more money than they can spend in a lifetime and can knock back tuna belly on the daily. You can, however, BYOB, an option which makes any high-end night feel delightfully Houston.

photo credit: Liz Silva

photo credit: Liz Silva

photo credit: Liz Silva

photo credit: Liz Silva

photo credit: Liz Silva

Food Rundown

photo credit: Liz Silva

Omakase

The nigiri-packed menu changes seasonally and has a specific focus on dry-aging techniques, including aged fish and wagyu as well as dehydrated seasonings, or yakumi. What Neo HTX pulls off better than other omakase and nigiri-focused sushi spots is a balance between the various yakumi toppings and the flavor of the fish itself. None of the yakumi obscures or overpowers, meaning fish from a light sea bream to oily mackerel aren’t obscured, but highlighted and heightened. You can appreciate both alongside one another without feeling like you’ve lost anything.

Drinks

While Neo HTX is BYOB, servers also provide you with near constant glasses of sake, for no charge, throughout the meal. And they aren’t just serving the same cheap bottle. Rather, multiple bottles are paired with the pacing of the meal.