The first thing you’re asked when you walk into Gao’s Kabob in Chinatown is if you’re here for seafood or here for barbecue. If you say barbecue (and aren’t looking for Gao’s Crab instead), you’ll be whisked away to a world of skewered meat, beer towers, and maybe karaoke. Bring a group of friends here before a bar crawl to load up on grilled proteins and garlic chives. Or show up at the end of a boozy night and let tender skewers of beef serve as your first line of defense against the drinks from earlier in the night. The later you show up, the more likely you’ll feel emboldened to do karaoke numbers as you pour from the beer towers that sit on the ends of tables, like taps of liquid courage.