HOUReview
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Burger Bodega
While Burger Bodega might resemble a millennial-smashburger fever dream, it actually pays a specific homage to the iconic bodegas around New York City, many of which are owned and operated by immigrants. But this is Texas. So Burger Bodega in Rice Military blends NYC bodega culture with Houston hip-hop, art, and our dedication to plastering the numbers 713 on just about everything—and then dresses it all in a spicy aioli.
There are only five things on the menu—three of them are versions of fries, one is a smash burger, and one is a chopped cheese—and all of them are nostalgic and satisfying. The smash burgers are surrounded by a caramelized lace of beef and smothered in house aioli, or bodega sauce. Addictive fries get dressed with grilled onions and melty cheese. There’s also a sauced-up chopped cheese, which, for the uninitiated, is a couple of chopped beef patties inside a hero roll with cheese and vegetables smothered in aioli. (We’ll take two.)
The nostalgia vibes run deep here, with artistically reproduced corner store household products—think facsimiles of laundry soap or cereal—displayed art-installation style, which initially feels a little corny. But after a few bites of the food or a couple sips of a mango lassi or Vietnamese coffee milkshake, you don’t really care what the inside looks like. Drop in with your friend or bring the whole family, hang out on the rooftop patio, or, in true bodega style, just take everything to go.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
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Food Rundown
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Smash Burger
A certain fast food chain from New York City should try this smashburger, because it's, like, way better than theirs. The edges of each patty are wafer thin and crispy with a hint of griddle smoke, and the mayo-like bodega sauce melds together with cheese and grilled onions. And the dense but soft potato bun supports the double stack without getting soggy.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Chopped Cheese
The chopped cheese was invented or evolved in a New York bodega, so the inclusion on Burger Bodega’s menu is a no brainer. Wrapped in a hero roll and oozing with bodega sauce and American cheese, the chopped cheese is an instant classic. And yes, you should make it spicy. This serendipitous mash up of an iconic American sandwich cross-pollinated deliciously with another culture makes you wonder why there aren’t more chopped cheeses around Houston.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Chopped (& Screwed) Fries
While we’re not sure how DJ Screw would feel about the name, we do agree these fries force you to slow down and enjoy every crispy piece of chopped beef or each sliver of grilled bell pepper. The cheese sauce is so stupid good, we kind of want to pour it on the burger.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Shakes
A classic burger establishment really isn’t complete without a selection of milkshakes. While Burger Bodega has classic flavors, they also infuse a little more Houston into the menu with the inclusion of the tropical and fresh Mango Lassi and the sweet, caramel-like Vietnamese Coffee.