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LA

Feature

August 18, 2020
The Best New Burgers In LA: Papilles
We missed one of the best new burgers in LA. You let us know. Consider this an apology.
Written by

It’s important to admit that you’ve made a mistake. And the LA Editorial team, as a collective whole, is doing just that. We have our hands up, we’re waiving the white flag, and we’re ready to acknowledge we’ve committed an error.

In early August, we published our list of The Best New Burgers In LA, highlighting nine spots with new burgers that we love. We stand by our picks, but thanks to you, our readers, it became quite clear after publishing that we might’ve missed a place - Papilles.

Update: We definitely did.

To be sure, we’ve been fans of Papilles for years, and believe this tiny French bistro in Franklin Village is one of the most underrated restaurants in the city. During the pandemic, however, they’ve added a casual takeout menu called For The Win that includes a fried chicken sandwich, patty melt, and a burger that completely slipped through the cracks for us. Until now.

Plain and simple, this is a very good burger. Crispy, quarter-pound patties on a toasted potato bun topped with onions, pickles, and doused in their Thousand Island-ish special sauce. It’s what we like to call a “Five Napkin Burger” - big, messy, and something you should never eat with your nice pants on. That said, it’s still immensely well-balanced, with simple toppings that keep the whole thing from going off the rails. Plus, who the hell is wearing nice pants right now?

If you’re looking for a better, fancier version of the Double-Double, this is your spot. If you’re looking for one of LA’s Best New Burgers, consider Papilles officially on the list. Actually, we’ve already added it.

OTHER THINGS TO ORDER

Patty Melt - For however delicious Papilles’ cheeseburger is, the patty melt might be just as good (we have similar feelings about Cassell’s, btw). It’s a classically simple version, but one where the quality of ingredients - and a sharp punch from the rye bread - do the talking. Don’t leave without one of these in your bag.

Fried Chicken Sandwich - Everyone seems to have a fried chicken sandwich on their menu these days, and Papilles has entered the ring with this very solid version. Don’t expect any crazy toppings or add-ons, this is the kind of straightforward chicken sandwich (it’s just mayo and pickles) you have trouble finding in LA these days.

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