CHI

The Kennison

The Kennison replaced Perennial Virant as the restaurant in the Hotel Lincoln. Unfortunately, it’s a disappointment, with a menu that sounds promising but falls short by delivering food that’s generally flavorless. The “buffalo cauliflower,” for example, is tiny pieces of cauliflower breaded in unseasoned rice flour and served with a thin, bland sauce on the side. The kale salad is overdressed with a boring vinaigrette, and the addition of ricotta cheese doesn’t help much. The burger seems to be an attempt at an elevated Big Mac (it has Thousand Island dressing), but the meat is underseasoned, and the bun gets soggy and disintegrates easily. This spot isn’t worth your time, even if you’re staying at the hotel.

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