Back in the day we would have been bowled over by a restaurant like Sink|Swim. It would have been the most interesting, exotic, fresh seafood around, and the coolness factor alone would have sold us. Barbecued fish collars? Genius. Oysters with gin? Heavens be. But that was then, and this is now. The standards for how we spend our weekly allowance has increased significantly, and Sink|Swim isn't worth it for a full meal.
It’s a shame too, because there are elements of a great restaurant here. Sink|Swim has an excellent atmosphere, with clean and refreshingly un-kitschy oceanic decor, the unmistakable waft of fishy smells, and a nice breeze that comes through open air windows on a nice day. It all makes you feel like there's a salty body of water nearby, and that's a tall order in these parts. We also love the staff, who is inviting and accommodating with a laid back demeanor that jives with the vibe.
The food, however, just isn't that good. The menu sounds exciting, with unique dishes incorporating ingredients you generally don't see in the Midwest, but none of that translates well in the execution. A lot of the combos don't sit well with us, and too much of the seafood is subpar. The result is a rather forgettable meal.
Sink|Swim isn’t bad, but for this caliber of restaurant the food does nothing but let us down. A+ for creativity, C for end result. A meal here doesn’t sink, but it definitely doesn’t swim. At best, it floats.
You’re going to want to start your meal with a bowl of these fried squares of fluffy, rich chickpea goodness covered in shredded pecorino and parsley.
A decent starter of raw salmon chunks with a parsnip ketchup. The gin flavor is subtle (almost unnoticeable), but the fish is fresh and the combo is refreshing.
A salad of cucumber, crispy seaweed, and creme fraiche. Another refreshing dish, but outside of some hits of dill, it tastes like a whole lot of nothing.
The name is a literal explanation of this dish, which is weird and not that great. This dish kind of sums up our feelings on Sink|Swim as a whole.
A small corn custard with crab, cotija, and smoked pimentón. Average elote, and not very much of it.
Collars are a little known gem of fish meat, and these collars were decent. The BBQ sauce was sweet and smoky, but we didn’t care much for the accompany kimchi. It made for a weird combination.
This shrimp toast is flat out bad.
We were most disappointed by this dish of garbanzo beans, kale, almond, capers, and herbs. Not enough flavor, not enough texture, and pretty darn mushy.
Pasta with smoked octopus, beef lardo, black pepper, and red wine. You can taste the smokiness in the octopus, which is nice, but the red sauce leaves you wanting more.
Hands down, this is the ugliest dessert we’ve ever eaten. If my dog looked like this dish, I’d shave his butt and tell him to walk backwards. That being said, this custard tastes pretty good with its flavors of chocolate, pretzel, whoppers, and orange. Perhaps consume this with your eyes closed.