Pavilion at The Langham, Chicago

Tea service at The Langham feels formal, and is the type someone’s great-aunt who has thoughts on “proper decorum” might like. They offer whimsical-themed teas, like an Alice In Wonderland one that involves cutely named dishes and a shot of tea to start your experience à la Alice’s “drink me” potion. But the harpist in the corner and modern furniture and art installations undercut any sense of playfulness. The food is hit-or-miss—some savory snacks like the chicken salad in a croissant are tasty, while others, like the ricotta toast, are flavorless and messy to eat. Similarly, the scones (which arrive at the end with the rest of the sweets) have a crumbly, sand-like texture that even jam can’t help. At $115 per person, there are better options for afternoon tea in Chicago.