Itoko

Three restaurants are on the corner where Lakeview staple Southport Lanes used to be: Itoko, GG’s Chicken Shop, and Little Goat Diner. They're all spinoffs from the same restaurant group, and of the Boka Compound residents, Itoko is the best. 

It’s open 7 days a week. Reservations are fairly easy to book. The sushi is consistently good. When a neighborhood couple snags a last-minute babysitter, or when someone has to figure out where the hell to host a Monday night birthday dinner, Itoko is there.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Itoko is the cousin of West Loop’s Momotaro, another Japanese spot with pricey sushi and small plates. It has two elegantly designed floors, and while the second level is great for a quiet dinner, the party is on the first. The front bar is buzzing, and in the back of the dining room (past the ubiquitous basket lights), busy sushi chefs are slicing raw fish and neatly rolling maki. Waitstaff weave like Olympic skiers between tables of kids playing with cartoony bento boxes because the aforementioned babysitter canceled. A lot is going on, but it’s fun versus a sh*tshow.

Sushi makes up most of Itoko’s menu, and it’s what they do best. Single pieces of nigiri like fatty otoro or aburi otoro with yuzu and ponzu are buttery and worth the $12-$14 price. The XO scallop handroll is an exciting mix of crispy nori, puffed soba, and scallops. And for DIY hobbyists, the $35 TCD tuna toro with pickled onion and caviar is a fun build-your-own handroll situation.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Aside from a tiny selection of tasty robata skewers, most of the cooked dishes are skippable—ranging from bland wagyu fried rice to cakey fried chicken. Plus, the shake-to-season paper bag full of wings and spices is like having a Shake Weight at dinner, and isn’t effective.

Itoko is like that friend who’s the “Emergency Call” when a date ends up being the equivalent of Alexa giving weather updates. It has your back. Just consider coming up with a sushi-focused budget beforehand to prevent sticker shock. Plan for a dessert, too—in fact, we’d come here just to hang out and eat handrolls and kakigori at the bar. 

Food Rundown

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Nigiri and Sashimi

All the nigiri and sashimi is delicious—from cuts of mackerel to flame-seared tuna belly with yuzu and ponzu. Order a la carte and create your dream line-up, or try the chef’s curated nigiri (six pieces) or sashimi (12 pieces) plates, which cost $44 and $64 respectively.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Momomaki

There are lots of maki, but this is our favorite. Originally a Momotaro signature, this balanced combination of tuna, spicy octopus, and sweet and tart daikon is a welcome Lakeview transplant.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

XO Scallop Handroll

This handroll has a balance of umami from the XO sauce, sweetness from the scallops, and a tartness from well-seasoned rice. There’s also extra texture from the crispy nori and crunchy puffed soba. Just be wary of the time limit—you need to eat the handrolls right when they arrive or they’ll get soggy.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

TCD Tuna Toro

This is a fun dish to share where everyone takes turns scooping up rice, tuna, kaluga caviar, and pickled onion onto their own individual nori sheets. We can also confirm it’s just as fun (if not more) to eat this by yourself.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Salmon Robata Skewer

It’s worth interrupting a sushi marathon for the best cooked dish on the menu. This salmon skewer has crispy skin and a pleasant char from the binchotan grill. The teriyaki sauce adds enough sweetness and saltiness without overpowering the flavor of the fish.

Beef Chahan

Loaded with wagyu, maitake, and a poached egg, it’s natural to assume this would be a rich and meaty stone bowl of rice. But it defies all odds and doesn’t taste like anything. And for $22, you might as well use those funds for more nigiri or a dessert.

Shaken Kato

Shaking up a paper bag of seasoning and fried chicken is fun for a moment. But the fun ends after biting into a cakey, unevenly seasoned chicken wing. Skip this.