You can think of Orfano in the Fenway as an old-timey Italian steakhouse, except for the fact that it’s brand new. The staff all wear bow ties or tuxedo-shirts, there’s a lot of black and gold, and you can order a $26 martini that will be made tableside. Despite all of the high production value, this place doesn’t take itself too seriously - and the result is a lot of fun. But more importantly, it’s also really good. The pasta dishes are excellent and not at all standard. The ribeye has been aged for 35 days, and there are some very good small plates and snacks, like the hand-pulled mozzarella served warm. Orfano is from the same team behind Tiger Mama, Sweet Cheeks, and Fool’s Errand. All of these places are on the same block, so it’s possible they’re preparing to take over a chunk of the city and build a bubble around it, but since the food is so good, we’re cool with it.