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Bondir is good any time of the year, but you really want to be here on a night when it’s snowing (or at least, when it’s snowing in December and snow is still fun instead of rage-inducing). It feels like the little cabin in the woods that serves the type of earthy food you can’t cook. It’s a tasting menu every night, so you’ll probably want to check the website before you book, but you can expect country-type dishes like mutton and pumpkin molasses sorbet.

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