In a small dusty lot next to an auto repair shop in South Austin, you’ll find Taqueria Hugo. It’s easy to miss, and even harder to park when it gets busy, but once you try your first bite of their suadero taco, its gravitational pull will guide you back, time and again. Grab a few suadero tacos, but save room for some fried quail enchiladas—another specialty of theirs that they somehow manage to dish out from this tiny trailer.

photo credit: Nicolai McCrary