Located in an old, remodeled house on West 10th, and sporting a hip hop-fueled playlist and dim red lights by night, Sammataro feels more like a hot new nightclub than a neighborhood pizza joint. But behind all the music, the lighting, and the tiny home feel, the pizza here is among the best in town (and some of the most expensive).
The space is small—show up early during peak hours, or prepare to get ushered into a tiny little waiting area that was probably an enclosed patio in a former life. And that’s a feeling that kind of permeates through the whole space. It rides the line between dark and cozy, and claustrophobically intimate at times—this is much more of a place to go on a date than for a business dinner—but there are a few small outdoor tables if your date happens to be your dog.
Pies here are unlike anything you can get in town. On the more well-done side, with a blistered crust and a soft center, the pizzas are like a hybrid between a New York and Neapolitan pie. They’re also on the pricier end—a classic pie without toppings costs $26. We’ve had a few consistency issues in the past, but when they get it right, this is the type of pizza you’ll be talking about for the next three days.
Sammataro isn’t a place you really need to dress up for, but somehow still feels like the type of place you’ll want to be seen in something nice. Maybe it’s because a side of ranch is $4, or maybe it’s because they’re trying very hard to be the cool-kid-on-the-block pizza spot, and actually pulling it off pretty well. And if all of this sounds like way too much to deal with (but you’re still curious about the pizza) you can order takeout from the trailer where they got their start, over on East 11th. You’ll just have to provide the lighting, music, and wine for yourself at home.
Don’t expect any wildcards here. This is about as straightforward of a salad as any, with a refreshing house vinaigrette that helps start the meal off on a very bright note.
These come four to an order, and topped with a bit of parmesan and red sauce. The sauce is a little runnier than we’d like, but the meatballs have a decent bite and make for a nice accompaniment to a meal otherwise dominated by carbs and cheese.
The crust is blistered in all the right ways, and perfectly chewy all the way through. Meanwhile, the center of the pizza has all the flop of a good Neapolitan pie. The sauce adds a sweet acidity without ever feeling too wet or overpowering. A pizza here is on the pricey end, but we’ve found it’s just about right for two moderately hungry adults