ATXReview
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Mum Foods
Included In
For years, Mum Foods was a carnivore’s haven at Austin-area farmers markets, offering smoked pastrami and other meats by the pound, in a sea of locally harvested carrots, kale, and rainbow chard. These days, the farmers market stand still lives on, but so does a permanent dining room in Windsor Park. The star of the show is still pastrami, but the added space means that they’ve expanded the barbecue menu and added in hot and cold sandwiches, soups, and desserts, creating a sort of hybrid between a Central Texas smokehouse and a New York Jewish deli (complete with matzo ball soup).
photo credit: Richard Casteel
photo credit: Richard Casteel
photo credit: Richard Casteel
photo credit: Richard Casteel
If it’s your first visit, try what made Mum into the farmers market legends that they are. Grab some pastrami by the pound, or an original pastrami sandwich on house-baked rye (there’s also a corned beef and a reuben) and prepare to share the massive second half with a dining partner. Then use whatever remaining space you have at the end for a slice of brown butter chess pie or New York-style cheesecake.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Richard Casteel
The Original
Mum Foods’ version of a timeless classic. The rye bread is baked in-house, and is served cold with a thin coating of deli mustard. The (optional) sauerkraut here is a little on the briny side—divisive!—but we feel like it’s necessary to balance out all the rich pastrami.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
The Rachel
Our go-to sandwich order. Here, the bread is grilled, the sauerkraut is subbed for coleslaw, and the dressing is Russian. As much as we like The Original, we think the combination of coleslaw and grilled bread adds some much needed textural contrast to the whole thing. This one’s only available as a full sandwich, so bring a friend or get ready to bring some home.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Pork Spare Ribs
Mum’s pork ribs are cooked exactly how we like them—with just a little bit of bite. The seasoning is pretty classic Central Texas-style, but a little sweeter than we’re used to. Add a couple ribs to your order.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Brisket
We’ve had some excellent pieces of brisket here that could go toe-to-toe with the best in town, but we’ve also had a few pieces that have clearly seen better days. If you have enough people with you, give it a chance, but if you’re dining solo or with a partner, we’d probably save space for the more consistent stuff.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Matzo Ball Soup
A Jewish deli staple, and a dish you probably won’t find at any other barbecue joint in town. Mum’s version is pretty classic, with homemade matzo balls and a warm, delicate broth that has as much comforting power as a good therapist. If you’re looking for matzo ball soup in Austin, this one’s near the top.