You’ve heard jokes about the Varsity’s menu of frail burgers and sad-looking hot dogs. But for the downtown landmark to thrive since the 1920s, they gotta be doing something right. And from where we’re standing, that thing is keeping a nostalgic vibe alive through paper hat-donning servers shouting orders as if the cook’s wearing noise-canceling headphones. Though the aforementioned burgers aren’t terrible, we only recommend the fresh-cut fries, fried apple pie, and Frosted Orange shake.
Sign up for our newsletter.
Be the first to get expert restaurant recommendations for every situation right in your inbox.