SFReview
photo credit: Stephanie Court
Besharam
Included In
At the back of Besharam, there’s a mural of a woman. She looks like someone who recently just told a wild story of a random connection she made at late night roller disco. The full account exists on the internet somewhere as an extended Twitter thread. Variations of this woman are all over the restaurant’s plates marked with sayings like, “Spicy Food Is For Spicy Girls” and “Hot Chai, Cold Revenge.”
The wall (painted by subversive artist Hatecopy) exudes Beyoncé and Ali Wong-level confidence—just like the upscale-leaning Gujarati restaurant in the Dogpatch. At Besharam, dishes are intensely flavored and have an assertive vision: spotlight western Indian food and remix them with new ingredients.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
This spot dropped meat from the menu and revamped it (for the second time) in summer 2021. Four sections highlight flavors from major cities in Gujarat, each with a handful of vegetarian small plates and mains. Mix and match, or stick with one region—just don’t expect a traditional Gujarati spread. We’d recommend playing roulette with the menu, as the odds of picking a winner are extremely high. But many of the best dishes are those that pack some heat, like the fire charred eggplant with garlic confit that tastes like a smokey open flame or the buttery malai koftas covered in velvety, richly spiced tomato-based sauce.
Across all sections of the menu, you’ll find that Besharam pulls from the Make-Your-Own-Rules playbook. Yes, that’s blue cheese in the parathas, and bitter melon in the sticky chutney. Garlicky pea shoots and raita are heaped atop tender Impossible kebabs. And mint-infused tamarind water for the crispy pani puri contains actual gin.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
But Besharam’s originality is only part of what makes it special. This personal place taps into chef Heena Patel’s family recipes and childhood memories. She’s a mainstay in the open kitchen—which, fittingly, is bordered by the mural—and frequently looks up into the industrial-style space to send calm energy while her husband works the floor. “Is this your first time here?” he might ask, like an excited old friend. The restaurant is also located in an area that doesn’t get a lot of foot traffic, so expect easygoing dinners that won’t result in you accidentally bumping into someone in a puffer zip up. The neon Besharam sign points the way.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Drunken Pani Puri
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Ringan No Oro
Candy Karela Pickles
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Bagara Bagara
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Maska Paneer
Besharam Samosas
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth