366 Metropolitian Ave.Brooklyn, NY 11211
I made a pact with my arteries the other day. Basically, we agreed that I would eat nothing but steel cut oats and raw carrots for the next six months to atone for what I did to them at The Commodore last week. In return, they agreed to let me off the hook for putting butter on my fried chicken.
In case you aren’t yet familiar, The Commodore is a new Williamsburg restaurant opened by Pies ‘n’ Thighs alum Stephen Tanner, and it’s bad for you. Bad because merely looking at the food here will jack up your cholesterol thirty points, and worse because everything is so good that you’ll crave it all the time. Eventually you too will be cutting imaginary deals with your organs to justify frequent visits. But before you ask the bartender to crush up some Lipitor into your frozen mojito, there are a few drawbacks you should be aware of. Ordering food can be kind of a pain in the ass, and finding somewhere in the place to eat it is another challenge entirely. There is no hostess, so basically it’s a free for all between you and all of Williamsburg for one of the few tables. Off-peak hours are your best bet for grubbing with minimal annoyance. If must go during prime time, we recommend circling the bar until a spot opens up there. That way you can order your eats from the bartender rather than the kitchen window, and suck back a few Commodores (piña colada with an amaretto float) while you wait. Those things are dangerous. So much so that I have now entered into negotiations with my liver. Let’s make a deal.
Three thighs and a few tiny biscuits make up one of the best plates of fried chicken we’ve ever had. This is crispy, juicy and impossible to put down.
A grilled cheese sandwich, but taken to the next level with pimento and poblano spiked white cheese. The bread is buttery and that cheese oozes out everywhere. So good.
Hot Breast Sandwich
A fried chicken breast sandwich with a great name, even though instead of a “hot breast” we ordered it “medium” in fear of overstimulation. A nice sandwich, but this pales in comparison to that plate of thighs.
Saltie Potato Salad
This potato salad is dressed in a thick layer of mayo that’s a pinkish color from smoked paprika. I think my heart was praying that I wouldn’t eat this. Thick mayo is not what I needed to accompany all that salt and fat running through my body.
Green Chile Hominy
A small bowl of hominy, green chile, and shredded chicken. We can imagine this would be great on a cold day, but by the time we got to it, we already had the grease sweats. Maybe we’ll like it better next time.
You Might Also Like
Infatuation in Your Inbox
Sign up for the latest reviews, guides, and features, and continue being the smartest person you know.
A rare instance of something actually improving after a major lineup change.
The best vodka pizza in town, one of the best Italian restaurants in town.
This is how you book a restaurant reservation in 2014.