NYCReview
photo credit: Emily Schindler
One White Street
Included In
One White Street’s chef used to cook at Eleven Madison Park and Frenchie in Paris, so it’s not shocking that each course is prepared with Steph-Curry-shooting-a-free-throw-like precision. All the food at this upscale farm-to-table restaurant in Tribeca is pretty to look at, and not one dish misses the mark in terms of execution. You’ll enjoy everything you eat here, and a few dishes will even stick with you. But the decor is what you’ll probably remember the most.
Housed in a three-story townhouse that you’d definitely buy if you came into hedge fund manager-type money, this attractive restaurant has marble walls, nice wood paneling, and lots of velvet seating. It all sounds stuffy, but the atmosphere is like a dinner party at your semi-famous friend’s very expensive apartment. Sure, you’ll see some folks in jackets and nice dresses and wine nerds deep in conversation about residual sugar, but you’ll also notice people out for a regular old dinner simply because their FreshDirect delivery was inexplicably canceled. The top two floors serve a nine-course $188 tasting menu while the first floor is à la carte.
Order from an à la carte menu on the first floor.
Decorate a postcard, and the restaurant will mail it.
The hyper-seasonal dishes from the à la carte menu are the ones you’ll remember the most. We love the beef tartare with squiggles of smoked egg yolk gel and horseradish. Though its description comes off as annoying, it’s a must-order. You should also get the shaved fennel salad. Apparently, garlic aioli and blue cheese are the ideal companions for fennel, and we can see why this item is always available.
photo credit: Emily Schindler
If you opt for the tasting menu, it starts out strong, but becomes a bit forgettable towards the end. You’ll begin with some creative small bites followed by a lovely brussels sprouts salad with ingredients like Asian pear and crispy shallots (or something similar). But the ricotta-and-leek-filled tortelloni comes off as one-note with its heavy, oily broth. The best course is the chilled foie gras, which always arrives with some form of perfectly-baked bread (Parker House rolls, for example). But you can get a version of it on the first floor, too.
We wouldn’t come back to One White Street for the tasting menu, but we would return to try new things on the à la carte menu. Come for a few glasses of wine and share some plates with a friend when you’re both in the mood to catch up somewhere that’s nicer than the neighborhood spot you usually go to. The menu changes constantly, so you have the perfect excuse to keep coming back.
Food Rundown
À LA CARTE DISHES
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Shaved Fennel
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Beef Tartare
Goat Cheesecake
TASTING MENU DISHES
Broccoli Tartlet/Crispy Broccoli
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Brussels Sprouts
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Chilled Foie Gras
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Tortelloni
Stuffed Chicken
photo credit: Emily Schindler