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Some restaurants serve spicy food that’s like a punch in the face. It hits hard, then you’re down for the count. At Kru, a Williamsburg spot that specializes in modern takes on century-old Thai recipes, the heat should not be discounted, but it’s not here to knock you out. The food here is nuanced, layered, and delicate. Order correctly, and you can have a transformative meal. Think of it a little like a workout for your palate. You’ll sweat, but you won’t be sore the next day.
At first glance, Kru might seem like a run-of-the-mill “cool” restaurant in Williamsburg. The room is dimly lit, with dark walls and some unobtrusive decorative elements like botanical illustrations and racks of delicate stemware. But this is more than just another trendy Thai spot. The menu is divided into three sections: small plates, relishes, and curries. Everything is designed for sharing, and you won’t find things like pad see ew, fried rice, or other Thai standbys here.
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Start with some small bites, then move on to relish plates, which rely heavily on local, seasonal produce paired with a slew of dips. Some are mellow and soothing, like one made from creamed pork jowl mixed with sweet rice and shrimp paste. Others are pungent, just this side of punishing, like a paste of almonds, multiple types of chili, and galangal. Every bite is a contrast of fire immediately quelled by the cool, crisp vegetables.
The signature dish here is the beef tongue curry. When you order it, the server will explain that it’s very hot, the way you might expect the effects of ayahuasca to be outlined before you take that fateful first sip. You’ll bite into bunches of green peppercorn strewn like grapes through the brown gravy that coats meltingly tender strips of beef tongue. Your vision will blur, you’ll sweat it out, then you’ll go back for more.
photo credit: Emily Schindler
By the time the bowl is empty, the server will bring you little knobs of coconut sugar to ease the pain. At this point, you should order their take on a peach melba. It’s made with fermented rice ice cream that has a flavor unique among all frozen desserts in the five boroughs.
When you’ve finished your meal and made your way back outside, something silly that was bothering you before — a passive aggressive Slack message, a too-long gap between texts with the person you’re dating — won’t feel so annoying anymore.
Kru translates to “mentor,” and the name is fitting. As far as spiritual experiences in this city go, you could choose an overpriced hot yoga class where the carpet smells like sweaty New Yorkers, or you could go through the literal and metaphorical fire of a meal at Kru. We’ll choose the latter every time.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Young Jackfruit Salad
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Cauliflower Crab Meat Salad
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Nam Prik Almond Relish
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Anchovy Relish
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Beef Tongue Curry
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Pineapple with Whole Lobster Curry
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Peach Melba