Habibi

Habibi is almost uncategorizable as a restaurant. This Middle Eastern pop-up operates in a Bushwick warehouse space, but the interior somehow looks like a lavish hotel conference room. A good chunk of the guests act like they're famous, but neither the Levantine food nor the service is glamorous. And almost half of the meal—including the hookah in the connected bar downstairs—is complimentary. If this sounds confusing, that's because it is. Not in a good way.

This pop-up project was invite-only for the first few months (it opened last summer). Its exclusivity, plus a warehouse destination, made the situation ripe for internet stardom. We were not on the invite list. But then the restaurant became open to the public, making it less cool and easier to secure a table.

photo credit: Willa Moore

photo credit: Willa Moore

photo credit: Willa Moore

Early virality meant the masses found Habibi. So the only things guests have in common are that they seek out internet-famous places, and they made it past three separate host stands to get inside. First, everyone receives a complimentary glass of Champagne, before taking an elevator outfitted with plants and a man playing clubby music from a portable speaker. It’s odd, yet a little exciting. In fact, it’s the most exciting part of the night.

Once you exit the elevator, climb up an additional flight of stairs, and check in one last time, all signs of warehouse atmosphere disappear. Now you're in a carpeted room full of servers wearing suits that look like they were purchased at Spirit Halloween, and guests photographing everything with the dedication of someone who would like to be paid to do so. While you decide which average dips and grilled meats to order off the a la carte menu, you'll get some complimentary pita and a crudités platter that includes a whole unripe tomato sliced tableside.

photo credit: Willa Moore

For a night that feels shrouded in mystery, the food at Habibi is surprisingly boring and affordable. Starters, like slightly limp fries or dry falafel range from $8 to $14. Mains, like room-temperature kofta and stewed lamb and rice, start at $22. With so many complimentary additions (the bubbles, the pita, the vegetable platter, and baklava for dessert), it's unclear how Habibi even makes a single dollar. It's also unclear how long this pop-up will last. When we asked a server about the future of Habibi, they said they weren't sure.

If you end up here because, say, a friend’s girlfriend’s sister made a reservation after seeing Habibi's disco ball on TikTok, dinner will have some perks. The people-watching could be an extreme sport—we witnessed a couple in matching neck scarves eat a lobster tail in complete silence—and you won’t swallow anything horrible. But don't go out of your way to see what this place is all about. Some mysteries are better left unsolved.