NYCReview
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Casino
Included In
The borders of Dimes Square have always been nebulous. It’s hard to say where the microneighborhood (a corner of Chinatown located at the intersection of New Balance and Phoebe Bridgers) begins and ends—but thanks to places like Casino, you know when you’re there.
Like Dimes Square, Casino is a vibe. This buzzy Southern European spot has a jazzy soundtrack and a candlelit feel, and it attracts a crowd of aspiring main characters and people looking to have a sceney date night. If you order correctly, you can have an impressive meal—but even while you go to town on your lamb pappardelle, the ambiance will still take precedence.
A mix of French and Italian, the food leans "1980s dinner party."photo credit: Emily Schindler
Wear your finest oversized blazer.photo credit: Emily Schindler
Lots of restaurants these days are channeling a 1980s aesthetic, but at Casino, it doesn’t feel cheesy. The tablecloths are white, the floors are bright red, and there’s just the right number of faux-marble columns. (Any more and it would feel too ironic.) When you’re sitting in a U-shaped booth, surrounded by people who’ve adopted the espresso martini as a personality trait, you’ll feel like a plus-one at a party that might get a brief writeup in Vogue.
The food is just as idiosyncratic and retro as the space, and it swings from fantastic to disappointing. Some starters, like the coppa topped with tart pickled celery, are unique and memorable, but others, like the mealy clams casino, taste like they came from an entirely different restaurant. For the best results, get the lemony whole roasted turbot or the filet mignon served on brioche coated in duck liver mousse. Most of the dishes are decadent and impractical, and that feels fitting. Casino isn’t a place you visit once a week.
Make a trip to Casino for a special night out that will remind you why some people consider downtown Manhattan the center of the universe. Order a cosmo, listen to Thelonious Monk, and mingle with some peers who have impeccable taste in eyewear. The scene is as watchable as any reality show that picked up a second season, and the whole turbot isn't bad either.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Spiced Coppa
Clams Casino
Pasta With Clams
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Papardelle
Lobster Cioppino
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Tournedos Rossini
photo credit: Alex Staniloff