NYCReview
photo credit: Noah Devereaux
21 Greenpoint
Included In
Most activities we played as kids don’t exactly hold up. Tamagotchis were really cool, but then we got cell phones. AIM is now Tinder. Checkers have always been the worst. But forts? Forts have always, and will always, be an exciting thing.
Pillows, sheets, chairs, and all the Oreos/Cheeze-Its in the cabinet - you used whatever you could find to build a mystical lair in the middle of your living room while the babysitter watched The Blair Witch Project. Now that you have neither a babysitter nor ample space in your living room, you can try to recreate the fort experience by camping, but that involves dirt and effort. You could “glamp,” but that requires hundreds of dollars to stay in a trailer. Or you could just replace your bed with a tent. But we’ll go to 21 Greenpoint.
The whole restaurant feels like a hideout. If you weren’t looking for it, you’d never just pass it - it’s in a townhouse almost at the water’s edge in Greenpoint. The space is long and narrow, with lots of smaller nooks and crannies for making your own. If you want to drink and eat alone, the giant v-shaped bar is your spot. If you want to meet someone for a noncommittal date, there are-not-overly romantic two-tops by some windows. If you’re looking to spread out with a crew, walk towards the back where you’ll find multiple levels of tile-and-wood tables, hanging plants, and other things you’d want to outfit your fort (or apartment) with. Even the bathroom is in an A-frame hut in the middle of the restaurant, if you need a place to camp out when your date starts to take a turn for the worst.
But one thing your fort definitely never had was food this good. 21 Greenpoint serves seasonal American stuff - but before you fall asleep just reading that phrase, know that theirs is actually interesting. Sure, you can get good pizza here, and there’s always a pasta and a burger - but there’s also super seasonal stuff (like an outstanding bowl of beets, watermelon, and goat cheese), and in the place of your standard roast chicken there’s a roulade involving hummus, bacon, and merguez. It’s the kind of menu where everyone can find something they like, or, even better - everyone can share a bunch of different things and walk out feeling like they got to try a lot.
To be clear, 21 Greenpoint is very much a grown-up place. It’s an interesting-feeling spot, with interesting-tasting food, and an atmosphere perfect for hiding from all the annoying adult things you have to take care of. That said, picking up a package of Oreos on your way home is never a bad idea.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Noah Devereaux