LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Hainan House
Included In
In a world of increasingly Infinite Jest-like restaurant concepts and boisterous big-name chefs, Hainan House feels like something of an introvert. As with many compelling places in London, you’ll find it sandwiched between an organic grocer and kebab shop. Only this low-key southern Chinese restaurant in Angel is making food that tastes far from run-of-the-mill.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
There’s a soothing, pine wood feel to the 12-or-so table space, and service is as kind and light touch as the chilled house-poached poussin is tender. Which is to say, very. While the gentle flavours of pear with chilli salt or wobbling silken tofu in a vinegar dressing may not blow you away at first pass, Hainan House has a canny way of creeping up on you. Swing by alone and get some sticky cola chicken wings at the waist-high counter or thaw out with friends alongside the mini coconut chicken hotpot. It is, for all intents and purposes, Chinese penicillin.
Aromatics play a big part here and, while a bit more oomph could be added to some dishes, the array of house-made sauces make up for it. The yellow chilli is punchy, the garlic ginger an addictive Carmex competitor, and the garlic-laden chilli oil chuggable. Little things like this matter, and it’s no surprise that a restaurant as thoughtful as Hainan House gets that.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Cola Chicken Wings
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Beef Jerky Rice Noodle Soup
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
House-Style Poached Poussin
Coconut Chicken Mini Hotpot
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Mushroom Fried Rice