LDNReview
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Campania & Jones
Included In
The world of romantic clichés is a fiercely competitive one. You’ve got Paris. You’ve got sunsets. You’ve got pretending you don’t want the last chip. Somewhere near the top of that list, for London at least, is Campania and Jones - an Italian restaurant off Columbia Road where everyone goes to fall in love. Even if it is only with a bowl of gnudi.
Campania’s most obvious USP is its aesthetic. “U so pretty” is what you’ll say to its wooden exterior and the ankle-turning, heel-kryptonite cobbled street it’s on. “Gor-juss” is how you’ll describe everyone eating pasta inside the rustic space. “Stunn-ing” is the word for your ceramic plate, and the carafe-happy table of monotone-clad cheekbones opposite. If it all sounds very fashion darling, that’s because it is. Nothing or nobody here would be seen dead, or even scattered in the general direction of a Primarni.
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
But the beauty of Campania isn’t just surface level. It runs deep and rich, just like their ragu di cervo that’s served with thick, noodle-ish belts of pappardelle. Ordering bread with this, or anything here, is essential. Firstly, because bread. And secondly, because the helpings - some of which are more generous than your own mother’s - are served with mopping up in mind. This is the case with the saucy venison ragu, where wiping down the bowl with a sponge of sourdough between your fingers is a must. In Italy they call this la scarpetta. We call it less washing up. Either way, it’s just one of the reasons you’re likely to fall in love and come back here again and again.
This is a restaurant where romances are formed or rekindled, whether that be across the candlelit table, or with a plate of ravioli you once thought about eloping with. In fact, pretty much everything at Campania shows off heart and tastefulness. From the back room where pasta is made all day, to the antique and candle-filled space that makes the villa from Call Me By Your Name look like Trainspotting, to the shared table of families tucking into tiramisu, all wearing the Commes des Garcon heart on their sleeves.
Ever since Campania first opened, it’s been popular with people playing London. As in wandering (being shoved) through Columbia Road Flower Market before perching on the cobbles (sitting on damp pavement) with a pint in hand before casually heading (booking at least a week in advance) for a meal at Campania. This shouldn’t put you off though, because everyone here is play-acting a little. Playing holiday. Or playing it cool. But most of all, playing the romantic.
Food Rundown
Bread
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Gnudi With Sage Butter
Raviolo e Vongole
Parmesan
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Pappardelle With Ragu di Cervo
Wild Mushroom Tortelli And Ricotta
Risotto Gamberoni e Zucca
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli