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If Oriole were a person instead of a restaurant, it would be an impeccably dressed date who showed up at your house with a great bottle of wine and a thoughtful gift for your dog. In fact, if Oriole weren’t so approachable and considerate, you might even think it was out of your league. Instead, this place manages to feel unpretentious while serving one of the best and most well-thought-out meals currently available in Chicago.
It’s obvious from the beginning that Oriole is very into you. Starting with the fact that a host greets you outside the restaurant as you walk up. That might sound like something out of Westworld, but really it just gives you the impression that they’re genuinely glad you’re here. Plus, it’s helpful, since the entrance is actually kind of hard to find. Inside, you’ll find a cocktail waiting for you, and you can drink that as they take you through a non-functional freight elevator into the space.
The dining room itself is low-key, with only a few round tables spread far apart. But like the denim jacket your date is wearing that looks normal but cost $800, don’t let the casual facade fool you. Dinner here is definitely a special occasion (it costs around $285 for a 13-course meal). The menu changes, but you can count on a minimalist style of cooking that’s confident without putting on too much of a show. In fact, you probably won’t even realize just how much is going on with each dish until you read the menu given to you at the end. For example, early courses of raw sea bream and uni nigiri look like simple pieces of sashimi and sushi, but their seasonings make them spectacular. Another course—a raw oyster with some pork consomme—is served next to a small crispy breadstick wrapped in jamon with tiny dollops of egg yolk and quince. Constructing it must be like playing Operation, but it also tastes like they shrank the world’s best charcuterie plate.
Not all the dishes are as dollhouse-y, and the perfectly-spaced-out courses become more substantial as things progress. Like the capellini with a yeasty butter sauce that’s topped with truffles shaved tableside by the chef. It’s relatively simple, and also one of the best pasta dishes we’ve ever had. The dessert courses are excellent, too, with dishes like a sweet/savory lemon souffle that has warm cheese poured over it tableside.
The truth is, when you spend this much money on a meal, good food is the bare minimum of what you should expect. What makes a place like Oriole exceptional is how it handles the details - like welcoming but not overbearing service, seamlessly timed courses, and tableside finishing touches. The food here is fantastic, but all these other things really round out the experience. As soon as you leave, you’ll wonder how soon you can see each other again.
The menu at Oriole changes regularly, but here is an example of what you might find: