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photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Obelix
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It’s upscale and casual. It’s French and not French. Like Jekyll and Hyde (minus the serum, homicidal rage, and examination of human nature) Obelix is a restaurant of contradictions—but that's exactly what makes this River North spot so exciting.
As soon as you step inside Obelix you're surrounded by an open dining room that's full of commotion. Couples are clinking wine glasses as they celebrate their anniversary. Six friends at a corner table are performing tortilla surgery in order to split a foie-gras taco. A solo diner is having a conversation with the bartender over a plate of dry-aged duck breast. Whatever the situation, the formal-but-not-stuffy atmosphere paired with a unique menu and great food means you’ll have a damn good time.
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photo credit: Kim Kovacik
At its core, the food at Obelix is definitely French, which isn’t surprising considering this spot comes from the same team behind Bucktown staple, Le Bouchon. The menu is full of words like confit, au poivre, and flambé. And when you look around the dining room you'll see dishes like juicy poulet roti and cups of soupe á l'oignion gratiné resting on top of pristine white tablecloths. And that bold, cheesy onion soup will comfort you all year long—even when your weather app doesn't cause you to say "Well, f*ck."
While the excellent French staples may inspire you to impulsively book a Parisian getaway (triggering a fraud alert for your bank), you should also order one of their creative French-ish dishes. Like the gimmicky-sounding "foie-co" (a foie gras taco with salsa macha and cherry jam) that initially made us skeptical. But its combination of salty, spicy, tart, nutty, sweet, and funky flavors led to delighted eyebrow raises, and another order. There’s a smattering of Asian-inspired dishes, too, like soft shell crab glazed in sweet Singapore chili sauce, or steak tartare with crisp banh mi pickles and umami shio kombu—unexpected ingredient-cameos for a French menu, but delicious appetizers that should be on the table.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Similar to the food, the experience of dining at Obelix isn’t exactly what you'd expect from a white-tablecloth French spot in downtown Chicago. Through the windows, it just looks like your typical upscale restaurant. There’s an attentive staff dressed in matching white jackets ensuring that any crumbs on the table are whisked away, and whenever people leave their seats, they return to find their napkin folded with origami-like precision.
But inside it’s relaxed and unpretentious. The bustling space has an upbeat hip-hop soundtrack, and friendly servers and bartenders having casual chats with diners about TED talk rabbit holes—ours was one about simplifying your life by wearing your favorite outfit every day. And whether that outfit is a suit and tie or just jeans and a t-shirt, at Obelix it doesn’t really matter. Obelix expertly walks the casual-formal tightrope, and we’ve never been happier to be able to eat a fantastic piece of duck along to some Anderson .Paak.
Food Rundown
Soupe À L'Oignion Gratiné
Steak Tartare
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Soft-Shell Crab
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Foie-co
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Dry-Aged Duck Breast
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Lamb Shank
Pistachio Soufflé With Honey Ice Cream