CHIReview
photo credit: Megan Sontag
Funkenhausen
This spot is Permanently Closed.
Included In
When you’re told that a restaurant is supposed to be “fun,” there are a few things you might expect. Like giant murals you’re meant to take pictures in front of, neon signs telling you how to live your life, or an anthropomorphic mouse selling pizza next to a ball pit. But some places are fun without being quite so obvious about it. Funkenhausen, a German-themed spot in West Town, is one of them.
By Chicago themed restaurant standards, Funkenhausen is understated. It looks like a modern German beer hall, with wooden beams, some cuckoo clocks, and a bright open kitchen displaying old-looking cleavers and hacksaws. Music helps the atmosphere, with a just-loud-enough mixture of funk and hip hop playing. The crowd here runs the gamut from groups having a night out, to couples, to solo diners hanging at the bar - but what all these people have in common is that they seem to be really enjoying themselves. And, if they’re doing this place right, eating a lot of pork.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
The German-inspired menu changes often, but one constant is that you’re probably not running off to a spin class (or any other vigorous activity for that matter) after a meal here. In other words, this food is pretty heavy. Like the French onion spaetzle (with mornay, caramelized onions, and pretzel crumbs), which is basically a big bowl of delicious German mac and cheese. And the excellent weisswurst, which is topped with a ham vinaigrette that should tip it over the edge into pork overkill, but somehow stays balanced. Speaking of killing, the cider-glazed pork shoulder with smoked onions and walnuts is such a perfect mix of sweet and savory, we want it buried with us when we die.
But some things end up going off the rails. Like the “surfen turfen,” which is fun to say but not much fun to eat. It’s scallops and pork belly, and while the meat is tender, the whole thing tastes too acidic because of the pickled quince, mustard, and kraut puree all sharing space on the plate. And dishes like the roasted sweet potato have so much extra stuff (like pickled mushrooms, mustard green pistou, apple chips, and caramel) that overall there’s just too much going on. Luckily, there are enough strong options on the menu to counteract the misses, and at the very least, the misses are still interesting.
We have to admit, Funkenhausen is a pretty silly name. And considering that they named their brunch menu “Funkenbrunchen,” we’re pretty sure they know it. But that’s a good indicator of the overall feeling of this restaurant - self-aware, not too serious, and kind of funny. That attitude, combined with some very good food, makes this place fun without feeling forced or contrived. So as long as you can say “Funkenhausen” with a straight face, suggest it for the next dinner where you want to have a really good time, and not feel pressure to pose in front of a giant mural of a schnitzel with wings.
Food Rundown
Garlicky Pretzel Knots
photo credit: Sandy Noto
French Onion Spaetzle
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Ricotta Dumplings
Oysters Hockafeller
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Confit Pork Shoulder
photo credit: Sandy Noto
The Weiss Wurst
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Surfen Turfen
Charred Broccolini
photo credit: Sandy Noto