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At first glance, Enoteca Roma seems like the kind of charming Italian restaurant you’re pretty sure New Yorkers walk by every day, and are probably taking for granted. It’s small and narrow, with only a few tables and a bar on the side of the room. The atmosphere is simple and even kind of sparse, with copper pots hanging on the wall and a large chalkboard with daily specials making up most of the decor.
But like Mary Poppins’ magic bag, this place has hidden utility. For example, there’s a huge tree-lined back patio that’s not visible from the street - and a bakery next door that’s owned by the same people, which has extra seating when the main restaurant gets busy. So the initially small-looking space works well for everything from a big group dinner, to a quiet date night, to a solo meal of wine and pasta at the bar when you don’t want to interact with more humans than strictly necessary.
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Given how small and cute this place looks, there’s also more on the menu than you might expect. You’ll find a long list of pastas (some housemade), bruschettas, polentas, antipasti, pizzas, entrees, risotto, and daily specials. Focus on the pastas - they’re the ideal delivery system for some very good sauces, like a rich venison bolognese or a flavorful pork sugo. The polenteria section of the menu is worth your time as well - you’ll get polenta poured onto a board tableside, topped with more of the excellent sauces we mentioned. And if you’re with a group, go for some bruschetta, too - they have toppings that are simple-sounding but really good, like apple, honey and brie, or goat cheese and red pepper. Plus, you can mix and match five kinds for $12.
There are a few things here you’ll want to skip, though. For example, the Roman-style pizzas, which have disappointing toppings - like cheese that tastes like it belongs on a frozen pizza, or an incredibly vinegary housemade giardiniera. There’s also an overcooked, mushy lasagna that’s only saved by its delicious venison bolognese sauce. Luckily, on such a long menu, these things are easy to avoid. Stick with the dishes we recommend in the rundown, and you won’t have a bad meal.
It’s easy to think that New York has us beat on the charming-little-Italian-restaurant front. But this place definitely qualifies, and like a fold-out couch or a dress with pockets, it’s also more versatile than it might immediately appear. So keep it in mind for just about any occasion that will be improved by great pasta you don’t have to plan a month in advance to eat.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Bruschetteria
Chalkboard Specials
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Polenteria
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Cervo
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Penne Arrabiata
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Pera
photo credit: Susie Lacocque
Gnocchi Alla Erbe
photo credit: Susie Lacocque