CHIReview
Included In
Do you constantly check the time? Obsess over your to-do list? Are you already wondering how long reading this review will take?
First of all, three minutes. Second, then you need to book a dinner at Dear Margaret, because this small French-Canadian restaurant in Lakeview excels in the art of the leisurely dinner. It plies you with delicious food and lovely service until you eventually just stop caring about your never-ending to-do list.
A meal here doesn’t happen so much as it unfolds, like a map to a remote Canadian village populated by incredible chefs. It’s not that things move at a frustratingly glacial pace, but the combination of the cozy space, downtempo music, and casual, incredibly friendly service is just relaxing. Before you know it, you’ll find yourself lost in a bowl of incredible rabbit ragu, without any concern over what time it is, or irritating tasks like renewing your city sticker.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
The menu changes seasonally, but you can always expect perfectly executed dishes with little touches to keep things interesting. In the aforementioned rabbit ragu, the braised rabbit is paired with tender duck fat-fried gnocchi, and served in a jus that tastes like it came from the combined power of a thousand Thumpers. The creamy foie gras torchon is cured with bourbon chai and orange, then spread on fluffy housemade milk bread. Spiced sesame granola adds a little crunch to a plate of duck breast and lentils that’s one legume away from making us move to a cabin in Quebec’s countryside.
When you finally remember to check the time (after worrying for a second you’re about to have a Night At The Museum situation on your hands) you should still order a piece of maple chevre cheesecake, or some chocolatey Nanaimo bars for dessert. After all, what’s the rush? It doesn’t matter that you need to be up early to run errands - Target isn’t going to miss you, and you don’t need to be anywhere else but here.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Foie Gras Torchon
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Charred Cabbage
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Bone Marrow
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Rabbit Ragu
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Aged Duck Breast
photo credit: Kim Kovacik